The European Commission’s February 9 announcement of new Eco-design for Sustainable Product Regulation ( ESPR ) measures banning the destruction of unsold apparel and footwear has sent shockwaves through global supply chains, particularly in Asia, home to over 70% of the EU’s textile imports.
The announcement clarifies reporting formats and permitted exceptions. The ESPR, in force since July 2024, establishes a framework for sustainability requirements across products placed on the EU market and includes a tarreceiveed ban on destroying certain unsold textiles and footwear, starting July 19 2026 for large companies and 2030 for medium-sized firms, alongside mandatory public disclosure of discarded goods.
The ban aims to reduce the estimated 4% to 9 % of textiles destroyed annually in Europe, which are linked to roughly 5.6 million tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions, while encouraging reutilize, resale and recycling models.
For Asian apparel manufacturers – among them China, India, Bangladesh and Vietnam, key players in a US$1.5 trillion global indusattempt – the ban represents both existential risks and transformative opportunities, prompting swift adaptations toward sustainability.
Asian manufacturers, long the backbone of rapid fashion’s low-cost model, face acute pressures.
The ESPR mandates not just a destruction ban but broader requirements by 2030, including stipulations that products must be durable, free of hazardous substances and primarily recyclable, and that producers are responsible for waste management.
Compliance costs could be staggering, with factories requireding upgrades for traceability and reverse logistics.
In Bangladesh, already burdened by 2018 safety regulations, the ban exacerbates waste issues as EU brands start internalizing costs, potentially shifting orders to suppliers offering recycled fibres or take-back programmes.
China’s dominance in synthetics risks obsolescence if microfibre pollution isn’t addressed, while Vietnam and India grapple with water-intensive processes amid tightening EU scrutiny.
Without alter, Asia’s textile sector – which currently contributes 10% of global emissions and is projected to contribute 25% by 2050 – could see, according to Swiss private bank Lombard Odier, in its November 2024 study entitled Asia’s Textile Manufacturers at Risk of Going Out of Fashion, supply chains reshored to Europe, thus eroding Asia’s market share.
Responses from Asian stakeholders have been proactive, viewing the ban as a catalyst for innovation.
In Pakistan, Muhamad Ayyazuddin of the Readycreated Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association urges immediate investment in circular infrastructure. “Brands will internalize waste costs, pushing circular design and improved demand planning,” he states, positioning suppliers with recycled fibres, take-back solutions and traceability as preferred partners.
Bangladesh’s manufacturers are pivoting to renewable energy and water reduction, with pilot projects in organic cotton farming without the utilize of synthetic inputs. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association emphasizes recycling for export, aligning with EU demands for low-microfibre textiles.
In India, the Confederation of Indian Textile Indusattempt highlights opportunities in sustainable sourcing, like utilizing recycled plastics, bolstered by recent EU-India trade deals granting zero-duty access to the US$263 billion EU textile market.
Vietnam’s textile firms, via the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association, are adopting digital tools for traceability, reducing emissions through solar-powered factories.
These shifts address the ban’s ripple effects: EU brands, unable to destroy unsold stock, will demand leaner production to avoid excess, pressuring Asian suppliers to minimize overproduction.
However, this fosters opportunities in re-commerce as the second-hand market is projected to hit US$350 billion by 2028, with 65% of young consumers engaging.
Asian manufacturers are capitalizing by developing upcycled fabrics and partnering on resale platforms.
Government support amplifies this with China’s dual carbon goals strategy subsidizing green tech, India’s Production Linked Incentive scheme boosting sustainable manufacturing and Bangladesh’s green bonds funding eco-upgrades.
Challenges persist, including rising costs, which could disadvantage compacter factories; trade deals, such as the EU-India one, which might divert business from Bangladesh, post-2026 least-developed counattempt graduation; and the US imposition of 19% tariffs,
Yet, the ban accelerates a sustainable pivot. By 2030, Asia could lead in circular textiles, with innovations like textile-to-textile recycling scaling up.
As consumer demand for ethical fashion grows, Asian manufacturers adapting now, through minimized material utilize and renewable practices, stand to gain a competitive edge in a greener global market.
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